JONES, Terry. i-D Magazine.
(London): T.J. Informat Design Ltd., 1980. First edition. Oblong quarto. 46 pages. The third issue of perhaps the coolest magazine ever published. i-D began as a fanzine dedicated to the street style of punk-era London in 1980 and soon became essential reading for the fashion-aware. It quickly earned its position at the vanguard of fashion and style, abiding by the premise of originate – don’t imitate. This first issue pioneered the hybrid style of documentary/fashion photography called The Straight Up. At first, these were of punks and New Wave youth found on London streets and who were simply asked to stand against any nearby blank wall. The resulting pictures—the subjects facing the camera and seen from “top to toe”—are a vivid historical documentary photography archive, and have established the posed “straight up” as a valid style of documentary picture-making. The magazine is known for its innovative photography and typography, and over the years established a reputation as a training ground for fresh talent. Wolfgang Tillmans, Nick Knight, Dylan Jones, Juergen Teller, Caryn Franklin and Craig McDean all started their careers here. Madonna, John Galliano, Alexander McQueen, Kanye West, Helmut Lang, Franz Ferdinand, Chloe Sevigny, Raf Simons, Undercover, Veronique Branquinho, Lily Cole, Giles Deacon, Dizzee Rascal, Scarlett Johansson, Rick Owens and Tadanabu Asano are amongst those who appeared first in i-D. The magazine, still published, is a consistent source of inspiration for all involved in fashion culture. This a very good copy with the often missing Scars gold flexi disc still present.